PARE, PARING, PARED
1. To cut off the outer coating, layer or part of; 2. to remove (an outer coating, layer or part) by cutting off 3. to reduce or remove by, or as if by, cutting; diminish little by little. From the latin “Parare” meaning to prepare, trim.
In an odd contradiction, clothing that is considered ‘revealing’ can more often than not also be considered ‘restrictive’. Tight and revealing garments such as underwear, corsets, jeans and skirts are both physically and socially confining. Entrapped by these garments, the body is left temporarily marked by pressure points exerted by straps and seams, whilst the unwanted judgemental gaze of strangers can leave one less temporarily assailed. Consider the button down shirt as an example. A staple garment of the corporate world, the shirt features cuffs and a collar, the very language itself connoting ideas about restrictiveness and control, whilst the shirt itself is loose and free flowing.
It is this contradiction between restriction and revelation that has informed this body of work. Through the manipulation of ties, buttons and openings, the garment layers are peeled back , revealing the wearer beneath. Playing with the concept of a tailored garment, made with minimal yet substantial fabrics with a plainness of cut and finish, the interest lies in the bonded un-sewn seams and gaping openings, the wearers skin becoming as important as the garment itself. Framing portions of flesh, the garments act as partitions between the outer world and intimate interior places.
These garments are playful, yet somehow serious,too. Tight, finely crafted stitches capture the notion of “tailoring”, yet the garments flow; they are loose and light, enhancing rather than entrapping movement. Almost an energy of childishness in the overlarge silhouette, the body swamped by fabric yet revealed by fabric. Visible lines of blood red, tempting and visceral, define movement, eye catching and mind teasing; the lustrous bonded red satin lining in stark contrast to the plain grey and white outer substance.
The bonded seams are manipulated through the use of simple bar tacks. A bar tack refers to a series of stitches that are used to reinforce areas of a garment that are subject to stress, such as pocket and fly openings, buttonholes and pleats. When used as a method of seam construction, the bar tack loses its ability to fortify, becoming fragile and delicate, at risk of tearing. Whilst a zip gives one control of the ability to expose ones body, a bar tack does not. Instead it fosters a sense of vulnerability and defencelessness.
Rather than garments wearing the person, keeping the true form hidden, the person wears the garment, revealing aspects generally denied to society by the barrier of cloth. These garments pare open and peel back the layers, inviting the viewer to unwrap, participating as unwitting voyeurs drawn by open slashes of flesh framed by fabric.
Concept and Garments by Jasper Fearnley / Photographed by Jess Brohier / Modelled by Emma Hakansson / Hair and Makeup by Bonnie Kapitany
Concept, Garments, Directed and Edited by Jasper Fearnley
Starring Emma Hakansson
Music by Cloud Farm Studios